Spirit of the Harbour: A Haunted Walk Through Nanaimo’s Past
By Melissa Horrell
Evening settles slowly over Nanaimo Harbour. The light turns silver, the gulls quiet, and the tide pulls secrets from the shadows. You can feel the history here — not the tidy kind written in brochures, but the living, breathing kind that lingers between footsteps and whispers through wooden docks.
The sea reflects more than sky; it reflects time. The coal barons, the miners, the shipwrecks — all left traces of themselves in the salt air. You walk past brick façades and lamplight puddles, and suddenly the present feels translucent, as if Nanaimo is gently reminding you that every port town has ghosts — not all of them tragic, some simply curious.
This is a city where the past doesn’t rest — it walks beside you.
Ghosts of a Harbour Town: History with a Pulse
Founded in the mid-1800s as a coal-mining hub, Nanaimo has always been a place of contrasts — beauty and industry, calm sea and restless spirits. Many of its oldest buildings still stand, weathered but proud, their stories layered with life, love, and loss.
Local legend says the old Newcastle Island, just a five-minute ferry away, is home to spirits of miners and First Nations people who once lived — and died — on its shores. Some visitors report faint singing at dusk or the echo of footsteps where none should be.
Meanwhile, downtown Nanaimo carries its own hauntings. The Old Courthouse Inn is rumoured to be visited by the ghost of a judge who never left his post. And in the Bastion, the city’s oldest structure from the Hudson’s Bay Company era, night guards sometimes hear doors creak open after closing hours — though no one is there.
Take the Walk: A Twilight Tour of Nanaimo’s Haunted History
1. The Bastion (Front Street)
Built in 1853, this whitewashed wooden fort is Nanaimo’s most famous landmark — and possibly its most haunted. Step inside by day to learn about the Hudson’s Bay Company’s role in the coal trade; return by night (on a guided tour) to feel its eerie calm.
Don’t miss: The nightly cannon firing (summer months).
Best time: Dusk, when the fort’s silhouette glows against a pastel sky.
2. Nanaimo Courthouse (Front Street & Fitzwilliam)
An elegant heritage building that once tried — and executed — criminals. Some claim to see flickering lights and hear faint gavel taps after dark. The building now houses local offices, but its gothic stonework remains an atmospheric photo stop.
Tip: Visit nearby Javawocky Coffee House for a hot drink before your evening walk.
3. The Vault Café
Once a bank, now a bohemian café — but locals say the basement vaults still hum with old energy. The dim lighting and vintage décor make it the perfect spot for storytelling. Try the chai latte or a local craft beer, and strike up a conversation with the staff; most have heard (or felt) something odd after hours.
4. Newcastle Island (Saysutshun)
Catch the small ferry across the harbour for a daytime visit, or take an early evening stroll if you can arrange a guide. The island has rich Indigenous and mining history, and even its stillness feels sacred. Some say you can sense the presence of those who once laboured here — the hum of memory in the rustle of arbutus trees.
Getting there: Ferry from Maffeo Sutton Park (check seasonal hours).
What to bring: Layers, flashlight, and respect — this land carries deep stories.
5. The Old City Quarter
This district brims with restored heritage buildings, boutique shops, and pubs that used to be boarding houses. It’s also prime ghost territory. Join a “Ghosts of the Old City” walking tour if you can — guides mix historical fact with spirited storytelling that feels both playful and profound.
🍷 Where to Unwind After the Walk
After tracing Nanaimo’s shadows, it’s time to return to the living:
White Rabbit Coffee Co. – Tucked-away café with moody lighting and jazz playlists that keep the magic going.
The Modern Café – A heritage venue for a glass of local wine or seafood chowder.
Vancouver Island Retreat – Back at your sanctuary, light a candle, steep lavender tea, and reflect on the night’s stories.
Practical Tips
Best Season: Fall — when misty nights and early sunsets make the atmosphere otherworldly.
Book a Tour: Try “Haunted Nanaimo” by Discovery Walks (small group, approx. $25).
Bring a Flashlight: Streets can be dimly lit; plus, it adds to the adventure.
Photography: Use your Canon’s low-light setting for that cinematic glow.
Respectful Curiosity: If you visit Indigenous or historical sites, move with reverence. Not all spirits seek an audience.
The Soul Beneath the Surface
Haunted walks aren’t really about ghosts — they’re about remembering. About walking slowly enough to notice the stories beneath our feet. Nanaimo’s harbour hums with history, but if you listen closely, it also hums with gratitude — for all who came, stayed, and left something behind.
Maybe that’s what the spirits want most: to be acknowledged. To be part of the island’s ongoing song.
